By Eric Vandenbroeck and co-workers

The 1848 Revolution

In 1848 the Papal States fell prey to revolution. I, Pius IX fled Rome in disguise, and a republic was declared. France also turned into a republic by the revolution of the same year, but with the Catholic party in the ascendant, sent an army to restore the Pope to his states. During these disturbances, the Knights of Malta opened a hospital at their Priory on the Aventine, but the rebels did not respect its neutrality. They set up artillery on the terrace in front of the priory church, which suffered damage from the besiegers' gunfire when the French mounted their assault on Rome. The Republicans were defeated, and Pius IX was restored. There was brief talk of entrusting the Knights of Malta with the defense of the Papal States, but besides being politically dangerous to the Order, such a task would have been beyond its resources.

Another consequence of the revolutions of 1848 was the fall of Metternich. His role in saving the Order of Malta from 1814 onward should not be underestimated; in particular, his intervention in 1825 unquestionably saved the Order from imminent dissolution; he was later behind the payments from Austria that permitted the Convent to survive in Ferrara and he kept the Order from extinction after the closure of the Convent. It is understandable that having been privy to all the woes of the Lieutenancy from 1814 to 1834; he should have come to regard the Order somewhat as a domestic plant that he was nurturing in his conservatory. His fall brought an end to that patronizing policy, as his generation gave way to that of the young Emperor Franz Josef, who came to the throne in 1848; thirty-three years later, he was to recognize the restored prestige of the Order by granting the Grand Prior of Bohemia the rank of a Prince of the Austrian Empire.

The reign of Pope Pius IX Mastai-Ferretti from 1846 to 1878 was the longest in Roman history. Still, it soon appeared that, despite being a relation to the well-deserving Bali Cristoforo Ferretti, he was not the friend of the Order of Malta that Gregory XVI had been. When he returned to Rome from exile in 1850, he discontinued the privilege granted to the novice Knights of Malta serving in the papal antechamber. Colloredo had not managed to bring the hospital of Cento Preti back into service, and in 1855 the Pope reclaimed it to found an ecclesiastical hospice, granting the Knights another church in Rome which they used until 1876. Less reasonable, one might say, was his brief Militarem ordinem equitum of 28 June 1854, which introduced restrictions on the profession of Knights of St John; in the future, they were required to take yearly vows for the first ten years before being allowed to make their solemn profession. The measure was fiercely opposed by the Grand Prior of Bohemia, who pointed out, among other things, that the yearly repetition of vows might be easy enough for monks living in the community but would be onerous for young knights who were, for the most part serving officers. For a while, the specter of Bohemian secession was raised again until, in 1857, it was put down by a plain-spoken letter from Colloredo.1 In Italy, too, Pius IX's decree was resented, and its effect may be judged by the fact that thirteen novices were waiting to profess. The Lieutenant felt obliged to assign them temporary pensions to compensate them for expectations of a commandery delayed for up to ten years.2 Since 1834, knights had been appointed to commanderies (mostly of very modest value) much quicker than in the past, but this was because the Order could not lodge young knights in Auberges as it had in Malta. Candida saw it was necessary to give them means of support, the apparent duty of any religious order to its members. The exacting period of probation introduced by Pius IX resulted in the result that for the next hundred years, many Knights of Justice did not proceed to vows at all. However, they retained their rank while remaining celibate. In the short term, it contributed to the fall of the number of professed knights to its lowest level in the nineteenth century. In 1857 Colloredo reported that the number of fully professed knights was then about thirty-five, besides some eighty other Knights of Justice, of whom some were in simple vows while others had no intention of professing.3

The reason behind the Pope's unpropitious measure is to be sought in another act at the beginning of his reign. In 1847 he founded the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre, which occupied, then as now, an intermediate position between the papal orders of chivalry and an autonomous military order. Although in practice, the offices of the Holy Sepulchre were at the disposal of the Pope, its Rector was the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem, whose title was simultaneously revived by Pius IX (The foundation of the order was inspired by the medieval practice of the Franciscan Guardians of the Holy Sepulchre of dubbing knights In Jerusalem, but these individuals were not organized into an order). Confident in the Pope's favor, the Order of the Holy Sepulchre began to imitate that of Malta, adopting a name unduly similar to the latter's official Latin designation, and its Grand Crosses took the title of Bailiff; these abuses were not suppressed till many years later. But the new state of things was clear: the Order of Malta was no longer the favorite chivalric body in the Vatican, and the Pontiff showed a disposition to treat its cross as if it were a papal decoration. This had a bearing on the continued failure to restore the Grand Mastership. If Archduke Friedrich had lived, Pius IX would not have quashed the plans to invest him with dignity, but since he had died and there was no comparable figure to replace him, the Pope was in no hurry to fill the vacancy. The title "Lieutenant Grand Master," granted by Gregory XVI in 1845, was the only symbol for the moment of a less precarious status.

In 1856 a proposal by the Order that its knights should be allowed to serve in the papal army was refused by Pius IX; his thinking seems to have been to discard the military character of the Order of Malta and to nudge it into an exclusive hospitaller direction. The result was seen in 1860 when the movement of Italian unification prompted a French nobleman to urge the Order's take a role in the defense of the Papal States; the Lieutenant, bearing in mind the response given four years before, felt obliged to return a negative answer.14

Under Candida's encouragement, continued by Colloredo, some thirty family commanderies were created in Italy in the quarter-century after 1834 to replace those lost. One was founded in Rome in 1839 by the Irish knight John Taaffe (1789-1862) and was held by him until his death. His son, also John Taaffe (c. 1820-1911), already mentioned, was zealous for restoring the Order and published a history of it in 1852. In it, he describes life in the Palazzo Malta, which could have served more or less unchanged until relatively recently: "Colloredo too," Taaffe writes, "lives in the house that belonged to his ambassador in Rome. There, with a restricted circle of members, he carefully preserves what remains of the order's archives and has several writers [i.e., clerks], some servants, and a few horses and carriages, like a not-rich private lord who keeps a hospitable, and even splendid table, at least upon great occasions ... Assuredly the most of the knights round their chief are old men; for they are the highest dignitaries of the order, many of whom had entered it at Malta ... This to be sure is an over easy life, not fitting any person not decrepit. But the order at Rome is not a fair sample; for those to be met with elsewhere are, for the greatest part, fine youths."15

Taaffe does not mention and perhaps did not know, that the Magistral Palace had as its librarian in these years one of the most distinguished astronomers of the time, Ludovico Ciccolini (1767-1854), who had been a colleague of Lalande in Paris. Received as a chaplain before the fall of Malta, the revolutionary interlude deflected him to a non-ecclesiastical career, but his contacts with the Order were revived when his brother Filippo became Vice­ Chancellor in 1831. Six years later, Ludovico Ciccolini made his solemn profession and was appointed the librarian of the Order in Rome, a post he held until he died.

More significant for the Order's direct interests was an arrival two years later. In 1856 the Austrian diplomat Count Lucas Gozze (1804-71), a native of Ragusa, who had had an active career in many countries, was sent as his empire's charge d'affaires in Rome. Still, he chose to give up his diplomatic appointment and take instead that of magistral secretary to Lieutenant Colloredo. At this time, he became a Knight of Justice, having first joined the Order in 1845 and moved into the Palazzo Malta, where he served Colloredo and his successor until his own death. His friend Josef von Patruban wrote: "His comfortable rooms soon became the gathering place for the most illustrious foreigners from all nations who made the pilgrimage to Rome ... In immediate relations with the Pope and with the most eminent dignitaries, both ecclesiastical and lay, he strove to employ his position to protect the honor of the Order and preserve it from errors."16

Gozze was soon in eager collaboration with a German knight who now arrived on the scene. Gottlieb von Schröter, a young army officer from the Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg, became a Knight of Devotion and threw himself into the task of reviving the vocation of the Order. Candida's attempt to recreate the hospitaller work in Rome had been destroyed, and the Pope's recent resumption of the Cento Preti confirmed its failure, but what if the knights could take up a task even closer to their first inspiration? Schröter was a man of deep religious and chivalric feeling, and in 1857 he traveled to the Holy Land to found there a hospital and a novitiate of the Order. Residing in Jerusalem as "Brother Schroder," he tried first to acquire the site of the Order's medieval hospital and kept a large sum of cash by him for the purchase.17 A brochure from his hand was submitted to a congregation of cardinals, and a rescript by the Secretary of State authorized the plan in 1858. Still, repeated efforts to carry it forward were frustrated. The Italian Patriarch of Jerusalem, Monsignor Valerga, opposed Schröter, and Pius IX seems to have shown his withdrawal of support from the Order of Malta in favor of the Holy Sepulchre and its Patriarch. Even more weightily, Napoleon III, who had just fought the Crimean War to assert the French protectorate over the Latins in the Holy Land, refused to allow the foundation (he regarded the Lieutenancy under Colloredo as being under Austria's thumb). His extreme disfavor to the Order in France left little hope of advancing the cause through the French knights. Not until the Emperor's fall could Schröter's vision begin to be fulfilled.

Another work of the Order was realized in 1859, which had been pursued with less credit. When Ferdinand II set up the Grand Priory of the Two Sicilies in 1839, it was the intention that the knights should open a hospital in Naples in the old convent of Santi Bernardo e Margherita, which at that time was a residence for army widows. With subventions from the government, work was carried out in the mid-1840s. However, by 1857 the hospital was still not ready, the Archbishop of Naples lamented the "disorganization of the Priory of the Two Sicilies" under the Grand Prior Borgia, and the government decided to take back the building. Early in 1859, Colloredo appointed a knight to be Lieutenant in Naples "to save the Priory," and the government returned the convent. On 2 August of the same year, the hospital was at last inaugurated, with the presence of all the knights of the Grand Priory, and it became a residence for poor and infirm priests. Two knights appointed by Colloredo were its directors.18 Three years later, the Order extended its charitable work in Italy by instituting twelve beds in a hospital in Milan.19

A report on the state of the Order of Malta given by Coli ore do in 1859 announces that there were some 110 Knights of Justice, besides 800 other members, mainly Knights and Dames of Devotion.30 The Order now possessed 100 commanderies, of which thirty-eight were jus patronatus. The total revenues of the sixty-two freely owned properties were estimated at 400,000 francs a year, and the receipts of the Common Treasury, including dues from the estates of the deceased knights, were 100,000 francs a year. In 1874 the personal revenues of the Lieutenant were reckoned a137.000 francs (eq.3000 USD) a year.31 The roll of Knights of Justice, which still included some received before the fall of Malta, remained in decline. Still, the Lieutenancy had recruited a vast body of honorary support throughout the European nobility. Its finances had made a singular recovery from the days when Busca had been unable to find the means to keep the Convent in Ferrara open.

 

The Lieutenancies Of Borgia And Ceschi A Santa Croce

The last years of Filippo Colloredo's Lieutenancy were filled with efforts to revive the Order in Germany and England, which will be described presently. Colloredo died on 9 October 1864, and, as was now statutory, an election by representatives of all the Grand Priories followed; the new Lieutenant, elected on 26 February 1865, was Alessandro Borgia, whose career constitutes an interesting link in the Order's history from pre-revolutionary days to the last third of the nineteenth century. Born in 1783, he was received into the Minority four years later. In August 1818, he joined the Convent in Catania under Lieutenant Di Giovanni, and he was one of the four knights who, in 1826, made the migration to Ferrara. He was a colleague in the Sacred Council of the Bali Trotti there, who had been General of the Galleys in Malta. In 1834 he escorted the armed convoy that transported the Order's servants and belongings (including Busca's ample table silver) to Rome. He made himself useful in various ways under Candida's administration. He would have been the obvious man to succeed him in 1845, but the need to conciliate the Austrians dictated the choice of Colloredo. This was just as well as twenty-six years under Alessandro Borgia would not have been good for the Order. His amiability had won him the esteem of his confreres throughout his long career, but otherwise, the chief luster he brought to his office was the prestige of one of the great families of Rome.

Within a few days of his election, Borgia obtained from Pope Pius IX the brief Romani Pontifices, making provision for a Complete Council of the Order, of which all the Bailiffs would-be members, to supplement the Ordinary Council. The leading achievement of Borgia's Lieutenancy showed the enhanced international reputation that the Order of Malta had won in recent years. The credit for this belongs to the knights in Germany, whose plans for revival were directed especially to hospitaller work, following the lead in the same cause of the Protestant Johanniterorden. Their zeal found expression when the war with Denmark broke out in 1864. At a time when voluntary work in wartime was still in its infancy and while the Red Cross was still being formed, the Knights of Malta mobilized hundreds of male helpers, nursing sisters, and military chaplains and organized numerous field hospitals. A leading role in the work was played by Prince Hohenlohe-Waldenburg-Schillingsfürst, first Duke of Ratibor (1818-93), a well-known statesman in the Kingdom of Prussia, who received the Grand Cross in 1864. In the Austro-Prussian War of 1866, the Knights of Malta in Prussia repeated their efforts, while those of the Grand Priory of Bohemia were active on the other side; this was the first occasion for the involvement of the army doctor Baron Jaroslav von Mundy, who was to prove himself a tornado of medical activity in Austria in the next thirty years.

 

Second International Conference Of The Red Cross

The result was that when the second international conference of the Red Cross was held in 1869, the Order of Malta was viewed as the leading agency in the field next to the Red Cross itself. The conference was celebrated in the parliament chamber in Berlin in April 1869, with members of the royal family among the spectators. The Prussian knights were represented by the Duke of Ratibor and Count Schaesberg-Krickenbeck, and Austria by Jaroslav von Mundy, while the Lieutenancy's official envoy was the Austrian Knight of Justice Othenio von Lichnowsky; it was indicative of the new standing of his Order that he was received as the delegate of sovereign power. Despite this, he felt the delicacy of his position as an Austrian in Berlin only three years after the war.

A memoir left by a friend of Othenio von Lichnowsky describes him as "an original and essential personality of the Austrian world of that time ... He was a grand seigneur, somewhat reminiscent of the ecclesiastical princes of the eighteenth century ... formidable for his sharp, black eyes and ready tongue, which he handled like a sword."32 The description gives added interest to the account that he wrote of the exchanges in the conference. At the session of 27 April the Prussian Surgeon-General "found the occasion to trace a lively picture of the activity deployed by the Prussian knights of St john at the time of the campaign of 1866. Then rose with lightning speed Baron von Mundy, the delegate of the Austrian government, to trace in his turn a no less brilliant picture of our activity at the same period ... If this well-informed and impartial gentleman, who is moreover a very good orator, had omitted to make this reply, I should have been obliged to make it myself, although to my great regret that would have stamped upon the discussion the appearance of wounded amour propre and no doubt have immediately provoked a personal reply on the part of one of the numerous Prussian Knights of St John then present, something that would have inevitably caused the debates to take on a very animated character.13 Mundy earned Lichnowsky's warm thanks for his intervention and was received as a Magistral Knight the following year.

In 1870, papal rule ended with the annexation of Rome to the Kingdom of Italy. The Italian government had already shown that it did not include the Order of Malta in its general anti-clericalism and had recognized it in 1869. The Lieutenancy's status remained unaltered under the new regime, but the Grand Priory of the Two Sicilies changed its name to that of Naples and Sicily. When Borgia died early in 1872, the election of his successor, Giovanni Battista Ceschi a Santa Croce, an Austrian subject from the former Prince-Bishopric of Trent, showed that the Order could elect a non-Italian without fearing for its position. He was a younger brother of Baron Aloys Ceschi a Santa Croce, who served as Austrian imperial governor of Trieste", Ceschi's succession also marked a transfer of rule from the generation that had been received before the fall of Malta and had preserved the Order's continuity for so long. The new Lieutenant was only forty-five, had been a Knight of Justice for sixteen years, and had briefly succeeded Count Gozze as a magistral secretary before his election.

In the first complete roll of the Order, published the previous year, the list of the Grand Priory of Lombardy and Venice shows the names of two knights, one of them with the rank of Bailiff, who had been admitted in Minority before the fall of Malta, in 1789 and 1791. These ancient survivals were among the eighty-six Knights of Justice who formed the core of the Order, but of that number, only thirty-six were professed. The figure represents the steady decline of Knights of Justice, which the revival since 1834 had slowed but had not reversed, for the dying off of the older knights - the survivors of the 2,200 there had been before the French Revolution - had constantly outnumbered new recruitment. To balance this diminished section, the Order now had 603 Knights of Devotion, besides nineteen Knights of Magistral Grace admitted in that class for lack of the full proofs of nobility. There were also eighty-four dames, forty donats, thirty-five professed chaplains (most at the Order's collegiate church in Prague), and twenty-one other priests attached to the Order without vows. The class of sergeant-at-arms had by now completely disappeared, but one class that was in theory not yet extinct was that of Magistral Page; Michele Gattini was admitted in that status aged thirteen in 1858 and later became Grand Prior of Naples and Sicily. Otherwise, it was still common for boys to be admitted as Knights of Justice in Minority. The Roll of 1871 shows only one diplomatic plenipotentiary at the Austrian Court. Five cardinals held the Grand Cross, including the Secretary of State, Protector of the Order. Among the other Grand Crosses, there were twelve members of royal families, of whom a curiously high proportion had lost their thrones: these were the Empress Eugenic of the French, the Empress Marie Charlotte of Mexico (widow of the shot Maximilian*), Grand Duke Ferdinand of Tuscany and Francis V, Duke of Modena.* Archduke Maximilian had been made a Grand Cross while he was Governor-General of Lombardy-Venetia In 1857. and showed great interest in the Order's plans to find a Holy Land hospice. He declared that if the foundation took place, he would go on a pilgrimage with his wife to visit the hospice and assist with its needs.15 The remaining royal personages were the Emperor Peter II of Brazil, Archduke Carl Ludwig of Austria, Prince Carl of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Gliicksburg, Princes August and Ernst of Saxe-Co burg-Gotha, Prince Philippe Eugene of Belgium, and Archduchesses Maria Carolina and Maria Annunziata, to whom one might add a lady of Grand Ducal family, Princess Marie-Amelie of Baden, by marriage Duchess of Hamilton.

The last years of the Lieutenancy saw the realization of the Order's efforts for a foundation in the Holy Land. Gottlieb von Schroter had succumbed to an early death without seeing any progress to his plans. However, his work was taken up by the Austrian consul in Jerusalem, Bernhard von Caboga (1823-82), who became a Knight of Malta in 1868. He was a native of Ragusa like Lucas Gozze, with whom he ranks as one of the most valuable servants of the Order at this period. (It would be more consistent to use the Italian form of his name. as in Gozze's case. Following the everyday linguistic choice of the Ragusan nobility. But as a servant of the Austrian Empire in Palestine, Caboga seems to have used the Germanised form.)

Knowing the opposition to Schroter made by Patriarch Valerga, who was still in office, Caboga decided to proceed secretly and to begin in a more out-of-the-way location than Jerusalem.16 He privately purchased part of the hill of Tantur, near Bethlehem, on whose plateau there was a building called the Tower of Jacob. He installed as a resident a functionary of the consulate and made visits under cover of conferring with his employee. He wrote to friends in Europe to raise funds for the proposed hospital, and Gozze, besides assuring him privately of the Lieutenancy's support, contributed handsomely from his pocket. The cause was advanced by Franz Josef of Austria's visit to the Holy Land in 1869. The Emperor interested himself strongly in Caboga's project and, for the rest of his life, was one of its most zealous supporters. On his return to Austria, he began paying 16,000 francs a year for the work and urged the cause on the Austrian knights and other contributors, who received a special distinction for their donation. In 1873 the Emperor declared himself protector of the intended hospital.

In 1872 Caboga became a Knight of Justice and received the title of Preceptor of Tantur, a nod to the fact that the site had belonged in the Middle Ages to the Order of St. John ("preceptor" being the medieval word for commander). The hospital Caboga had planned opened in Easter 1877, five years before his death. Its building, which enjoyed fine views towards Bethlehem and the Dead Sea, consisted of two square towers and a linking range with double-story arcades. Besides a chapel, living quarters, and the necessary equipment of a hospital, it contained at first only one ward for patients, with six beds, and it functioned otherwise as an outpatient clinic. When Archduke Carl Ludwig (one of the Grand losses mentioned previously) visited it in 1896, he founded a seventh bed. The gate tower was built in 1895 in a medieval style and is the only part of the current structure. In 1902-03 a further story was added to the main building, and a polyclinic wing was built in 1909. Served by the Austrian province of the Brothers of St. John of God, Tantur was a highly effective hospital until the First World War. By 1908, its out-patients clinic dealt with 15,000 cases; there were 3,000 visits to patients, and 125 sick were cared for in the hospital for 1,579 days. In the rolls of this period, Tantur is described as the "General Hospice of the Order," its existence seemed to point to a policy in which the international charitable work of the Order would be directed to 'the Holy Land.'

 

The New Grand Master

In Rome, Pius IX died in 1878 and was succeeded by Leo XIII. Of noble family, the new Pope was well disposed towards the Order of Malta, and he required little prompting to bring to an end a vacancy which a string of accidental circumstances had kept unfilled since 1805. On 28 March 1879, he raised Lieutenant Ceschi a Santa Croce to the rank of Grand Master, the papal appointment being pro hac vice: future Grand Masters would be elected following the same procedure as the last three Lieutenants. The Order thus visibly returned to the normality of which the blows since the loss of Malta had deprived it. During those eighty-one years, the Order had been ruled by superiors who range from the appalling - Hompesch and Busca - through the unfortunate Di Giovanni, who would have been the first to say that he should not have been where he was, to others who deserve the highest recognition of their brethren. Besides making valiant efforts to reclaim Malta, Tommasi restored the Order's government to its proper footing after the Russian vagary, and the two Lieutenants Candida and Collore distinguish themselves by how they responded to the complex challenge of revival.

In the narrative of the sad failures between 1814 and 1834, various suggestions have been made of the actions that the Order might have taken to discharge its duty in the conditions of the time, but it is worth noting that if they had been followed, they would not have been casting. Suppose the Order had committed itself to the armed services of the Papal States (unless in a purely naval role), it might have been expropriated and suppressed in Italy at the Unification. If it had conquered an island in Greece, the result, in the long run, would have been growing tension with the government of that country and eventual annexation. By failing in those aims, the knights avoided the nemesis of history. It was precise that by 1879 the Order had been reduced to political impotence that spared it from being disturbed by the new conditions and enabled it to expand in numbers and strength in the next period as a purely charitable institution.

 

1. Krethlow. The Rivista for 1938-39 has a series of articles by 1. Rangoni Machiavelli, I Luogotenenti del XIX Secolo.Krethlow, pp. 194-201.

2. OM: CT 460, Libra Lettera Decreti  della Veneranda Camera, 1850-62, under 16 July 1859.

Previous histories of the Order conventionally describe Pius IX's brief as beneficial; it was quite the opposite, and the Order tried in vain to have it reversed.

3. Krethlow, p. 412. Strictly, one should add a few surviving professed knights of the dissolved Priory of Portugal, whom Colloredo did not take into account.

4. Krethlow, p. 230, quoting Colloredo's letter to the Baron de Barghion de Fort Brion.

Krethlow mentions ibid. A plan by Cardinal Antonelli in 1860 apparently for a purely Austrian battalion to be provided by the Order to defend the Papal States, but the Grand Prior of Bohemia rejected it.

5. Taaffe, op. Cit. (see Note 23), pp. 226-7.

6. Josef von Patruban, Lucas Graf Gozze, obituary in the Journal Vaterland, Vienna, 1871.

7. A. von Winterfeld, Geschichte des Ritterlicher Ordens St Johannis (1859), pp. 558-9.

Winterfeld gives Schroter's Christian name as Gottlieb (also found in the Greek form of Theophil); later works incorrectly call him Gottfried. Schroter is an undeservedly neglected figure, and one must regret that his compatriot Krethlow has not provided a biographical sketch of him.

8. F. Varone and 1. Recchia, La Sede napolitana del Grand Priorato di Napoli e Sicilia del Sovrano Militare Ordine di Malta (2014 (?), pp. 31-40.

9. OM: CT 460, Libra Lettera Decreti della Veneranda Camera, 1850-62, under 16 July 1862.

10. Winterfeld, op. cit. (see Note 30 above), pp. 569-71, citing Colloredo as the informant.

11. Krethlow, p. 154.

12. Ibid., p. 354, quoting Count Hugo Lerchenfeld-  KoferingErinnerunen und Denkwürdigkeiten (1935), p. 13 and foll.

13. Pierredon, Vol. 3, pp. 28-9. Othenio von Lichnowsky (1826-87) was Grand Prior of Austria from 1874.

14. Krethlow, p. 262.

15. The history of Tantur is told in an article by A.C. Breycha-Vauthier de Baillamont in Annales, 1976, pp. 39-4 "Tantour - Retour de l'Ordre en Terre-Sainte", and in C.A. Chamay, La Colline de Tantour (2004).

 

 

 

 

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